Paris Apartment #1 and Maître Alain

Marlow and Wes
1, rue Saint-Claude, Paris
31 October 2013

We were staying in the Marais for the first ten days. The small building was elegant. Our ground floor unit, (see open door in the photo,) a one-

bedroom, opened onto a tree-lined cobblestone courtyard. Beyond the distant wall, through large green doors—large enough for your carriage and horses—is rue Saint Claude. A few paces to the left is a small barber shop. More than a barber, really. As per his card, his title is, "Maître Barbier Coiffeur." (Master Barber Hairstylist.) His name is Alain. He offers "coupe personnaliste, taille de barbe, rasage à l'ancienne." His shop is a "salon musée."  The walls are hung with antique porcelain bowls, for washing hair, each with a crescent shaped indentation (like this)

to accommodate a human neck. For several days we walked our unruly hair past his windows. We peered in. He peered out. He knew we needed him. We made appointments. He was polite and formal.  He wrapped us in capacious robes of flouncy fabric.  Christening gowns. Classical music wafted. Our hair was washed in warm water with soothing hands. After a quick rub with a towel the snipping began. Quick, confident, without conversation, and finished in ten minutes. I have to admit we looked great. Maître Alain was

pleased. Seeing us daily through his windows, he knew he had skills we needed. What will we do without him.

Marlow and Wes
1, rue Saint-Claude, Paris
31 October 2013