Ferrara: 14 November 2015

Wes and Marlow
14 November 2015
Ferrara

It is, again, a birthday weekend. In fact, today is the day! Wesley's birthday. He has the desire to visit Ferrara so we packed a small backpack for two and got on a train for the thirty minute ride.

From the Ferrara train stazione we walked fifteen minutes to the historic center where there are impressive castles—with moats and drawbridges—and the cathedral. The cathedral is like those in Parma and Modena in that it was built in the early eleven hundreds. And like them, it is built over the ruins and remains of buildings from several thousand years ago, mostly pagan shrines to Egyptian deities, I think.

Ferrara, on the perimeter, has unremarkable even somewhat ugly concrete buildings. Then suddenly you cross a street and and the scale becomes small, the streets paved with small stones, the doorway arches are pointed and all the front walls of the small buildings are tilted and leaning from centuries of settling into the soft ground beneath their foundations.

We found the way to our hotel. It sits in the historic district opposite one of several super large—five hundred room—castles of the Este family.


The hotel is small and modern. Their clientele is international. There is a guest book in the lobby. It is open to a page from nineteen hundred and ninety eight. Two of the signatures on that long ago page are from long ago friends of mine.

Our room is a block away from the hotel proper in a building from the fifteen century. It is a split level room. The ceilings are particularly high. The windows look into a courtyard garden with large mature trees. Portions of the old stone walls are, here and there, exposed, but overall it is smoothly plastered and mostly modern.

We went next door to a pizzeria for lunch. Immediately inside is a large, brick, domed, pizza oven with two white hot logs blazing inside. We ordered farinata di ceci.

We have not had it before. We did not know what to expect. It is chickpea flour mixed with water and olive oil, poured into a shallow round tray and baked in the pizza oven which is near eight hundred degrees. The farinata di ceci came out of the oven the thickness of two tortillas. It was egg shell crisp on top and bottom. In between it has a texture of firm custard.It is an outstanding thing to eat, especially on a chilly day.

We took a nap, freshened up and went out for round two of the Ferrara birthday experience.

For the birthday cocktail we are in the Enoteca al Brindisi. It has been open since, could it be true, the year fourteen hundred and thirty five. Copernicus drank here. The painter, Titian, drank here. Benvenuto Cellini drank here. Now, Wes and Marlow drink here. A sparkling rosè and a prosecco, both tasty. The effervescence in both are celebratory. A wooden board of sliced meats came, also, to the table. The room looks old, but not five hundred years old. Everywhere, it is knotty pine with honey toned varnish. Picnic style tables and benches, back to back, are also pine.

Just before stepping in here, we walked into the cathedral where a service was in progress. The interior is romanesque and gothic. There is a lot of trompe l'oeil painting of renaissance detail. There are crystal chandeliers everywhere. The floors from front to back, as in Parma, are blocks of pink marble.

If the appearance of the church reflects the city, Ferrara is awash in money and good taste. Though the decor is over the top and then some, it works.  The elements all contribute to an excellent whole. The place was jammed. The priest's sermon sounded typical. The cathedral interior reminded me of opera sets by Franco Zeffirelli. Large scale, grand, opulent, gleaming. I could imagine Mister Zeffirelli walking the Ferrara cathedral with a note book jotting ideas for his designs.  Meanwhile, back at the enoteca, we paid our bill, with a final sip in honor of the enoteca's five hundred and eighty fifth year in business.

Outside, it is chilly. As we walk down a narrow street and into the piazza—in front of the cathedral and the castle—we enter a temporary tent. Inside is a wonderful food market, Mercato di Campagna Antica. It's long tent is parallel with the long cathedral. Inside, are hundreds of cheeses. Parmigianos and pecorinos. And there are truffles, black and white. Beautiful fish. Eels, live, coiled in a barrel, lungs puffing in and out. Fruit and vegetables. The best products on offer anywhere.

Now, out of the cold, we are in the warmth of Ristorantino Quel Fantastico Giovedì, a ristorantino. It is highly recommended by trusted friends and considered very expensive by local standards. We learned today that yesterday the President of Italy had lunch here. We wonder what he ate and where he sat. The two rooms are smallish, about twenty four seats per room. Low ceilings. Old heavy beams painted white as are the walls. The seats are armless, high back and black leather. Table linens are grey and white.

A small appetiser has arrived. It is a small glass holding cream of fennel and basil with almonds toasted and slivered on top.  Also, a warm plate holding four breads appears. One bread in particular is a show piece of Ferrara, rolled and sculptural, simple and white.

We are drinking Foss Marai Valdobbiadene Prosecco from the Veneto.

Now, the extraordinary fun begins. Two plates, large and square, have arrived. The silver domes are lifted to reveal Pasatelli con Fonduta di Parmigiano and with white truffle shaved all over. Pasatelli is our new passion. It is all over Bologna. It is a pasta hybrid. It has four ingredients: egg, grano cheese, bread crumbs and nutmeg. Often, it is served in broth. We have had it that way. And we have had it "asciugo", dry, not in broth, but added to a non-soupy stew. Also Wes has enjoyed making it at home several ways. But tonight, with white truffle, the first ones of the season, it is outstanding.

The President, yesterday, ate in this ristorantino. We asked the owner what he ate. She is accustomed to reknowned customers, but to have the President at her table was a rare thrill for her. She said he ate Cappellacci di Zucca alla Ferrarese con Burro Fuso, Salvia e Mandorle Tostate, (small pasta stuffed with pumpkin in sage butter). And he ate Sformata di Patate e Salamina da Sugo Cotto nel Latte Fresco. For dessert he had sorbetto. She said the dishes are simple local specialities. And he ate them in the small room we are seated in. He ate food, simple and local.

Our main courses have arrived. For the elegant birthday gentleman: Faraona Farcita alla Crema con Funghi Porcini. And for me: Guancia di Vitella Cotta a Bassa Temperatura con Polenta Grigliata.

Translated, it means guinea hen stuffed with porcini mushrooms. And veal cheek slow cooked. Both plates were long white rectangles. Both were arranged the same with braised raddicchio on one end, very thin discs of eggplant lightly grilled. The vegetables were strewn with tiny purple shiso leaves which were a wonderful mystery flavor until we recognized them. Between the vegetables were our main courses.  Both when they hit the tongue, delivered enormous pleasure. And both were in a buttery sauce which is not a daily item for us, but as a bit of birthday luxury it was very welcome.

For dessert, we asked for sorbetto, the same flavor the president had yesterday, lemon basilico.

We said to the owner, if it is good for the president it shall be good for us, too.

Another birthday wonderfully celebrated. Thank you Ferrara. Happy Birthday, Wesley!

Wes and Marlow
14 November 2015
Ferrara