Paris, 2009 (photo by Roland Kato)

Paris, 2009 (photo by Roland Kato)

Tuesday, June 14, 2016

Resources - Sicily and Puglia


We have compiled lists of tips and various resources in response to inquiries regarding specific places or events mentioned during our travel in Sicily that we would particularly recommend.  We have not attempted to list every restaurant or accommodation - only those that stood out and that we would love to return to.

Accommodations
  • Siracusa - Apartment in Ortigia in an ideal location with a view of the sea but not located on the busy perimeter of the island.  Spacious with nice furnishings and attention to all details.  Owner was helpful and responsive.  Located up a few flights of stairs but worth it!  You could just stay inside and enjoy the space.  Highly recommended.  
  • Modica - Casa Talia.  Extremly comfortable inn with self contained units tucked into the hillside, outstanding views and lovely gardens.  Modica is well located for exploring the Southeast of Sicily and is convenient to the nicest beaches.  The inn is located above the heart of the town which provides more convenient access for day trips by car than having to drive through the congested center.  But the center is only a ten minute walk downhill.  We stayed in the Scirocco room which was ideal.  Highly recommended.
  • Etna area - Monaci delle Terre Nere has a good location fairly high up on the East side of Mt. Etna with expansive views out to the sea.  Nice swimming pool and yard for relaxing.  Onsite restaurant is overpriced and not recommended.  There are probably better options than this hotel in the Etna area but we were comfortable there and enjoyed relaxing at the pool.
Accommodations - Puglia and Tropea

Restaurants (click on link for address and other information)  Many restaurants we visited are affiliated with Slow Food.
  • Ortigia (Siracusa):
    • Caseificio Borderi Sandwiches made to order using fresh ricotta and other cheeses.  Located in the market.  Worth the wait in line.  Also interesting and entertaining to watch.
    • La Gazza Ladra (Slow Food)
    • Enoteca Solaria Nice option for the aperitivo hours.
  • Scicli: La Grotta   (Slow Food) Highly recommended.



  • Portopalo di Capo Passero: Ristorante Scala (Slow Food) Highly recommended.

  • Tips

    • Lunch seemed to start at 1PM and last until 3PM.
    • We preferred to have our main meal at lunch since life since many shops and sights are closed during the lunch hour.  This habit also fits nicely with the aperitivo practice where many bars and restaurants serve ample snacks along with drinks during "happy hour".  
    • Restaurants are happy to split portions between two so we would often share ("condividere") a pasta or other "primi" and then each have a meat/fish/vegetable course.  It is also completely acceptable to only order from one section of the menu.  You do not need to order both a primi and secondi.
    • The Slow Food app for iPhone includes a map feature whereby you can easily find affiliated restaurants in your vicinity.  We made extensive use of this app.
    Miscellaneous
    • We arranged our rental car through Autoeurope as we have many times in the past.  We have never had a bad experience with them and found their rental rates to be far below other options.  They e-mail a voucher which needs to be presented to the actual rental car agency (Hertz, Avis, Europecar, etc.).  They also will match lower prices that you may find after you book the rental.  For example, I check their listed rates, as well as the rates of their sister company Kemwel.com, after I make the initial booking and often am able to reduce the rental cost even further.
    • You will hear many people counsel you to not drive in Catania or Palermo.  We ignored this advice and drove in Catania and it was a mistake.  It was very challenging (frightening actually) and there seemed to be no attention to normal rules of the road.  Do not attempt it!
    • Driving in the rest of Sicily was fine.
    • The Sicily travel forum hosted by trip advisor is a great resource.




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